Food Gentrification in North Denver

Yesterday at the Jubilee Center our ABCD pilot project held our second small community discussion. Our first meeting was on education and youth, this one focused on a challenge that many have not yet admitted is happening in Northwest Denver: gentrification. However, throughout our one-to-one interviews with community members, we have heard quotes talking about gentrification such as:

“I worry that people are living here because it’s trendy and cool and they don’t have a commitment to where they live.”

“One time we had a community meeting at Our Lady of Guadalupe – it was the first time Italians were in a Mexican church. People are drawn through the history and culture. If you capitalize on the people who were here, who have that history and culture, there is a point of equalizing.”

“Younger metropolitan group doesn’t have historical connection, instead want access to downtown.”

It is clear that the influx of people into Northwest Denver is part of people’s thoughts when they are discussing their neighborhood. At our second community meeting, we had a more in-depth discussion on gentrification. As we prepared for that meeting though, we stumbled across articles about something called food gentrification, which refers to previously inexpensive or unpopular foods becoming the new “foodie trends”. This means that the higher the demand, the higher the prices because there is a shortage in supply and willingness to pay more.

The food that tends to come to mind when talking about popular new vegetables is kale, a leafy green that has been dubbed a superfood. In 2011, kale was sold in 4,700 stores in the United States. Now, it is sold in 50,700 stores and during that time increased in price by 25%. In 2013, Entrepreneur wrote an article dubbing 2013 as “the year of kale”. Everyone is talking about kale, blogging recipes centered around it, and sharing on social media when they eat it. Whole Foods recognized the takeover that kale had in the food industry and at the beginning of 2014, wrote an official blog post and marketed in store the idea: Collards Are the New Kale. This is where the food gentrification began.

Collard greens have been a staple of working class Black and White Southern American’s meals for centuries. When a high end grocer decides to market collards by likening them to the status of kale, prices undoubtedly increase to accommodate the surge in demand, leading to less availability and affordable prices for the people that had already “discovered” this vegetable. The life of collards may soon mirror that of kale’s to be a booming fad across the country.

Through our work in North Denver, we thought about this idea of food gentrification a little differently. Here, food gentrification manifests itself differently than by increasing prices in grocery stores. Rather, our change in prices has come through an abundance of restaurants. Gossip around the neighborhood states we have about 65 restaurants within a two mile radius. Many of these restaurants offer a variety of cuisines and the prices in these establishments tend to be on the higher end. Such an incredible number of options to dine out implies that the people of the neighborhood have that leisure time as well as the disposable income to choose which restaurant they are in the mood for. What does that mean for restaurants that have been in the neighborhood for years?

This neighborhood is very good at dining out, enjoying the social scene, and hosting community events around food and leisure. Knowing about food gentrification and its implications on the prices and availability of food, how do we welcome new restaurants into our community? In what ways can restaurants bring us together? How do we appropriately manage this influx of higher end cuisine in our neighborhood while also having local grocery stores and restaurants that cater to lower income families?